At the helm of Vogue; breaking with tradition.

February 8th, 2012
Emmanuelle Alt singing Wham.

Emmanuelle Alt singing Wham.

Vogue has a long tradition as a magazine of high status and reputation among fashion publications. It’s today published in 18 nations, although the largest circulations can be found in the US, the UK, France and Italy.

Long tradition is something that can also be found in Vogue magazine editorship. The first-mentioned editions have had the same editors in place for about 20 years. Who hasn’t heard of Anna Wintour editor-in-chief of US Vogue, or at least seen her fringed bob, perfectly tailored dresses and dark shades on catwalk sidelines. There are rumours that Miranda’s draconian management style in the Devil Wears Prada shares similarities with Ms Wintour.

Editor-in-chief of UK Vogue, Alexandra Shulman, may not be so easily recognised but in 2012 celebrates 20 years in office. She’s known for cool intelligence, as well as having the skills to navigate the tricky path between couture collections and high street style and giving British Vogue readers plenty of fantasy as well as reality in the magazine’s content. Inside information reveals that she occasionally cycles to work.

There’s nothing wrong with holding down the same job for a long time. And Wintour and Shulman wouldn’t be there for 20 odd years if they weren’t doing something right. But it’s not really exciting is it? A feel of same old same old.

Carine Roitfeld resigned as editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris after ten years at the helm in January 2011, to focus on personal projects. I’ve used a lot of cigarettes, a lot of sexy pictures, a lot of naked girls. I will try to do something totally different now, because I don’t want to get bored of myself or to bore my readers. So, if I learn something new today, I will use it. I have to reinvent myself.”

Replacing her was Emmanuelle Alt. Who has just launched the magazine’s new website. By appearing in a Wham-spoof video and looking liking she’s having a ball.

Over in Italy former editor of Vogue Italia, Anna Dello Russo, doesn’t want to be cool, she wants to be fashion. She might have added fun, those outfits really are OTT.

The times they are a-changing.

A fashion week with knits. Guess which country?

February 7th, 2012

Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W 2012

It’s getting a bit tedious, innit? Danish fashion and knitwear, are there any other dimensions to fashion in that country? Has The Killing done the country a favour? Or not?

Grazia went to investigate. First impression were cold with -12°C outside. When I arrived in London last week I heard reports on the radio about freezing temperatures outside, hovering around +2°C.  Everything is relative.

Read about the heydays of Mary Quant recently. When she started out she made all her garments in a size 8 – wartime rationing meant everyone was lean. Size 8 today obviously means fat. If you’re not size 0 then you’re out. The winner of Holland’s Next Top Model is suing her agency after having been dropped due to being judged fat. Measuring 1.83m (6ft) she claims she was sacked because her hip measurement exceeded their maximum limit of 90cm.

The agency’s excuse is that couture clothing is made in one size only: (très très) petite. This is not something modelling agencies can change. And thus can’t get her any work.

Looking at photos from the Copenhagen Fashion Week, I’m pleased to notice that models look slim but healthy. But guess what? No. 1 of Grazia’s fashion highlights are … Amazing Sculptural Knits.  Yawn.

Fast forward to No. 5 on the list: Beer. Yes beer – odd in a fashion context. But how liberating. Direct from the Grazia team;

At most other fashion shows we’ve attended, there is usually a splash of champagne or maybe a cocktail or nice coffee (in the morning) to be quaffed. Here at Copenhagen, the Danish national drink was everywhere. One show was even held at the brewery! (although it was too dark to get a decent picture) we had lots of fun at the Henrik Vibskov show. Ooh, by the time we boarded the plane home we’d developed quite a taste for lager!

Hope that sense of fun won’t vanish in the wake of the introduction of the world’s first fat tax

The miracle of the QR code.

February 7th, 2012
QR Code in a MATKI showering ad.

QR Code in a MATKI showering ad.

It has its origins in the automative industry. And in China they have apparently used it on train tickets since 2009. But fast readability and large storage capacity in comparison to other barcodes has also made QR codes popular outside “techie” industries in the US, UK, Canada and Hong Kong.

The first time I realised their usefulness was when I saw one on those paper bits found on plants in plant nurseries. Being easily blown off course when visiting such places, I’ve always felt a need for more information in addition to a plant’s height, soil and sun requirement and flowering times.  Now finding out more is easy-peasy – get the mobile phone out (it has to be newish), scan the image of the QR Code to display text, contact information, connect to a wireless network, or open a web page in the telephone’s browser.

Leaving you with no excuses should things go wrong with the garden additions two months later  … which they shouldn’t, couldn’t possibly … ??

Gold and turquoise – a colour combination extraordinaire.

February 7th, 2012
Peace Pagoda, Battersea Park, London.

Peace Pagoda, Battersea Park, London.

Turquoise has a blueish tone of light green. It’s a strong, protective colour and the colour of self-expression and transformation.

Gold is one of a variety of orange-yellow colour blends used to give the impression of the color of gold metal.

They are beautiful colours as separates. But even more magnificent together. On porcelain, interior textiles, wallpaper, and even on clothing. Or as above, picturing a gilded statue of the Buddha shown reclining as he enters Nibbana (Mahaparinirvana) at the end of his life.

Minding the Brando brand.

February 6th, 2012
Tuki Brando for Mr Porter.

Tuki Brando for Mr Porter.

Marlon Brando died in 2004, “unchallenged as the most important actor in modern American Cinema”. He’s not out of mind though.

Life is full of coincidences. On a flight from London this morning I grabbed a freebie Daily Mail. It featured an article about Marlon Brando’s grandson Tuki Brando promoting Mr Porter clothing together with other celebrity offsprings, such as Ethan Peck, grandson of Gregory Peck, and Logan Plant, son of Led Zeppelin’s Robert Plant. Modelling is not Mr Brando’s primary occupation, he’s normally a medical student in France.

Did he need permission to participate in the campaign? The story doesn’t say. Why the question? Because there’s a guardian angel involved. And it’s called Brando Enterprises – they watch the Brando estate like a hawk. Today, as a matter of illustration, it was awarded a judgment of $356,000 in its federal lawsuit against Ashley Furniture Industries Inc. for unauthorized sale of a line of furniture products under the ‘Brando’ name.

Mind that Brando brand.

Immersed in emerging design at the London Fashion Week.

February 6th, 2012
International Fashion Showcase.

International Fashion Showcase.

To differentiate itself from other Fashion Weeks, London is nurturing its image as home to emerging fashion design talent.

In February this year it will play host to an International Fashion Showcase, a case showing emerging fashion design from (mainly) emerging economies. 19 embassies and cultural institutes across London have been asked to present a selection of emerging designers whom they feel most represents the future of fashion in their region. In all the work of over 80 international designers will be displayed.

Countries participating in the showcase include Australia, Belgium, Botswana, Caribbean, China, Croatia, Estonia, Italy, Japan, Korea, Netherlands, Nigeria, Philippines, Poland, Romania, Sierra Leone, United States and Uzbekistan.  As part of the Fashion 2012 Cultural Programme the showcase has been developed to celebrate the year of the Olympics and Paralympics and honour its values of international respect, excellence, equality and friendship.

The public, together with international press and buyers, will have the opportunity to explore the collections and an advisory panel will judge each piece of work, with an award given to the country that presents the best emerging fashion talent showcase.  This will be announced on Sunday 19th February, during London Fashion Week.

Cork flooring – a win-win solution.

February 6th, 2012
Cork flooring.

Cork flooring.

If you are into wine, you would know that cork stoppers in the bottles are fast being replaced by screwtops. The latter are so much more practical, but there’s still something special about corks. Why do I have this feeling they are more common in bottles filled with expensive wine?

Less cork used for stoppers must surely mean there’s surplus cork that can be utilised for other products? Such as flooring. Cork flooring appears to be a win-win solution – environmentally friendly, insulating, hard-wearing and not overly pricey. Attractive it is too.

Once upon a time I vaguely recall cork flooring being rather popular. Haven’t seen too much of it in the last decade or so though. Suppose competition from wooden floor boards have been too stiff.

Maybe in this day and age of green thinking it’s bounce back time?

Sending a postcard perhaps? For a change?

February 5th, 2012
RHS postcards.

RHS postcards.

RHS postcards.

RHS postcards.

How do you feel about getting a Xmas e-card from friends and family?

I appreciate them, but actually prefer to get a good old fashioned one in the post. It just feels more personal.

RHS offers a set of high quality postcards featuring botanical artwork from the collections of the world-famous RHS Lindley Library. Each beautifully presented set includes 32 postcards, 2 each of 16 historic images.

Maybe not suitable as Xmas cards, but would probably be much welcomed as a thank-you card.

Garden owners – RHS needs a helping hand.

February 5th, 2012

Garden
The Royal Horticultural Society needs a helping hand from Britain’s garden owners.

Gardeners are encouraged to send in their favourite pictures of their gardens in order to assist in the Society’s effort to create a ‘Gardens of the Nations’ database. Images will eventually act as a source of informaion for historians, researchers and gardeners as a visual record of the history and development of domestic UK gardens.

The archive’s launch is part of RHS National Gardening Week 16-22 April.

Rising from the rubbish.

February 4th, 2012
Grosvenor Canal 1986.

Grosvenor Canal 1986.

Grosvenor Canal February 2012.

Grosvenor Canal February 2012.

Le Jardine Exotique de Roscoff.

Le Jardine Exotique de Roscoff.

It’s fascinating in all the terribleness.  Twice the size of continental USA, the world’s largest rubbish dump is described as “plastic soup” and floats around in the Pacific Ocean. Estimations indicate that 100 million tons of everything from footballs and kayaks to Lego blocks and carrier bags can be found in the water about 500 nautical miles off the Californian coast, across the northern Pacific, past Hawaii and almost reaching Japan.

About one-fifth of the junk is thrown off ships or oil platforms. The rest comes from land. Underwater currents, little wind and extreme high pressure systems have combined to create a trash vortex.

How this situation is to be resolved remains to be seen. The only certainty is that it will be a huge undertaking.

Meanwhile, back on terra firma there are two instances showing the successful transition from rubbish management areas to something more appetising. Grosvenor canal in Pimlico, London used to be a garbage disposal facility. Now it’s home to a mixture of premium and affordable housing units, incorporating roof garden terraces and a spa.

Le Jardin Exotique de Roscoff  in Brittany, France used to be a rubbish dump. In 1986 two local subtropical and exotic plants enthusiasts decided it was the perfect place to plant their collections of southern hemisphere agaves, cordylines and the likes. With time it has become a popular attraction for locals and tourists.

Rubbish doesn’t have to be an indefinite.

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